Kohechi, the Mountain Route
Back at the Kumano Kodo with my wife, this time to walk the rugged and mountainous Kohechi route, which cuts the Kii peninsula from north to south.
We start at Mount Koya, a large temple settlement dedicated to Shingon Buddhism since 819. From there we walk south to the Shinto shrine of Hongū Taisha and then to Nachi Taisha, clocking 110km over 6 days of walking.
Each day we go up and down the mountains as we move to the next village in the next valley which will feed and harbor us through the night. Those villages go from places housing ~240 people to the smallest settlement in the whole Japan.
The food is amazing, the mountains are treated as deities and there’s always a hot bath (often from geothermally heated springs) waiting for our tired feet.
The Elevated Precint at the Mount Koya.
Nanin temple, were we stayed our first night.
Arriving at Omata, after crossing the Mizugamine Peak.
Using borrowed bikes to go to the city public bath, so that we can enjoy its hot springs.
In front the mountain from the previous days, behind the mountain from the next days.
Arriving at Mira-guchi, after crossing the Obako-toge Pass.
The owner of Minshuku Mandokoro.
During dinner she proudly showed to us a documentary that talks about the Kumano Kodo with highlights of the village, her stablishment and herself more than 10 years ago.
Our hosts on Minshuku Mandokoro.
Rain on the trail.
Arriving at the Totsukawa Village, after the Miura-toge Pass
Going up the Hatenashi-toge Pass
The Totsukawa river.
Rice fields at the Hatenashi village.
Entrance stairs at the entrance of the Hongū Taisha shrine.
Our hosts at the Guesthouse Modorizenoyado.
Ready to start the next climb.
Arriving at Koguchi, after the Kogumotori-goe.
Kumano Coffee, jazz music, pour overs and iced lattes.
Our hosts from Kumaano Farm & Guesthouse. We got to hear the conch shell being played as we faced the Nachisan and prepared for the last day of our pilgrimage.
Going up the Ogutomori-goe, a relentless non-stop ~1000 meters climb.
Arriving at Nachisan.
Downtown of Kii-Katsura, the fishing village that marks the end of our rote.
